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The most visible damage from fires that lit up Napa Valley hillsides in October is random black in the treeline, most of it miles from wineries. To the west in Sonoma County, nothing is visible from the fall’s two weeks of post-harvest smoke. While some homeowners are rebuilding, tourists see nearly nothing but a vibrant, welcoming scene in The Wine Country, 50 miles north of San Francisco. We proved it to ourselves in the late winter — a time of lower prices — visit a visit to Healdsburg, the cultural hub of Sonoma County.

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